South-South in Colours

This project was photographed and documented in Calabar, Cross River, which is in South-South, Nigeria.

On a warm December afternoon, after the Christmas celebrations, Calabar came alive with a long-standing tradition: masquerades moved through the streets. They did this to perform for the crowds and to visit the homes of Calabarians living within the municipal area – esteemed men and women whose lineages trace back to the old Calabar settlements, now towns, such as Henshaw Town, Duke Town, Creek Town, Ikot-Ishie, and others.

Onlookers might take the Ekpe’s outward flamboyance as simply “masquerade culture”.  But the Ekpe is not merely a masquerade. Rather, it is a tradition deeply rooted in Efik history. Ekpe, an Efik word, translates to “lion”.

Each time the Ekpe emerges, an extensive preparation has already taken place within the secret society before the vibrant costume of raffia and wool is worn. It is believed that the Ekpe’s rhythmic yet unpredictable movements are not the performer’s own, but the motions of a man under a trance.

On this day, amid the jubilation, I kept my distance, photographing with my Nikon from a safe angle to avoid the Ekpe’s sudden, unpredictable movements, swift enough to land a lash on the skin without warning. Not much is known by outsiders about the inner world of this male‑only tradition, which has existed in Calabar since precolonial times. Even now, it remains forbidden to women and continues to be shrouded in mystery.

The images here tell a visual story of masquerade culture and highlight the excitement and mystery these masquerades bring to the streets.

 

 

By Sophia Egbelo

Sophia Wubung Egbelo is a multifaceted writer and storyteller who enjoys connecting audiences to different eras and cultures around the world through the beauty of prose and photography. Her storytelling examines characters through cultural and societal perspectives, appearing primarily as fiction but also extending into nonfiction, photography, and poetry. In photography, she enjoys capturing cultures, subcultures, festivals, and landscapes in nature. Her publications include Codes of the Badagry Lagoon (2019), Curators of the Dead (2026), and A Thousand Songs I Write for You (2026). Her short stories have appeared in The Hawai'i Review, The Kalahari Review, and The Single Story Journal, among others. She teaches writing at a university level and is often working on her next creative project.